Jan 14, 20223 min read

Expedition to Agua Hedionda

A puesto in the heart of Sierra de San Buenaventura

Getting to Las Papas (2,700 meters above sea level) with a good vehicle is not an easy task. Depending on the seasonal rains, you have to wade through the Las Papas River about 50 times. When it rains it can be impossible.

The town is home to no more than 100 inhabitants who live mainly from mountain livestock, goats, sheep, cows and, and a few, llamas. It is the starting point of the expedition.

The first thing is to check the horseshoes and secure the load on the donkeys, saddle up, then leave. The expedition members: Rolo Oviedo and Fabiana Cortez, his daughter Nahir, his grandchildren Dylan, Miguel, Naithan and me.

The outward journey was through the port of El Rodeo to make the journey in two stages, passing by the El Telar stand where we spent the night. In the morning, after a few mates, again to check the horseshoes, saddle up, secure the load on the donkeys and leave. There is no description for the sensations caused by the environment we travel through. He let the photographs, mere images, give them a vision of the landscape.

The pounding of the mules' hooves, the caress of the fresh wind on the skin, the smells of sweat combined with those of the plants, the air, low in oxygen (3,500 masl) clean of pollution, the touch of the saddle under the buttocks, strong connection between our body and that of the horse ... There is not enough poetry to transmit it. Whoever wants to feel it will have to try the experience for himself.

The "puesto" is called Agua Hedionda. It is the confluence of the San Buenaventura river with the Hediondo. But it doesn't smell unless you put water up your nose. The San Buenaventura is crystal clear and healthy.

There we shared the bucolic labors of life in the countryside for a week. Every day you have to round up the goats, milk them and cheer them, look for water in the river and firewood in the surroundings. When necessary, a goat or lamb is meat. Bathing, branding, castrating and shearing cattle is a seasonal job. at this time it is also necessary to attend the births of the goats. There are always arrangements in the architecture of the post, pircar, repairing roofs. When time permits, spin, weave, tan, braid. And housework, washing clothes, cooking, kneading bread, making tortillas. if they are found, it is always time to collect weeds, medicine The whole family participates, regardless of sex. At night comes the time for stories, talk and a game of cards.

"The day is short - Don Rolo repeats - but without this time the night becomes long."

Trekkings and walks, are endless. It gave us only two time. One by the Playa Blanca, with magnificent views of the Pabellón hill (4,624 meters above sea level) another by the channel of the San Buenaventura to where they call Las Vegas. For another time, if God decides to return, the top of the Pavilion remains, from where there must be portentous views of the Andes mountain range at the height of the Seismiles.