On the way to cheese

Two years ago at this time we had a cafeteria, Brotes del Abaucán. We served and sold the artisanal products that they make in the Abaucán Territory. Among them the cheeses and quesillos, goat and cow.

Once a week we went to look for them on a mountain west of Palo Blanco. Its name is not defined yet. Some call it Lampato, others Los Colorados or Cerro Azul. Its peak at more than 5,000 m.a.s.l.

We visited various "puestos", La Junta, El Bangel, Aguadita, Las Lechuzas...

To get there, they wade through rivers and rattle over the sand. Path that in summer with the rains decompose in an effort to return a virgin mountain. The panorama, still wild, deserves the shaking of shock absorbers and vertebrae.

In summer, the sullen landscape for the unsuspecting eye becomes a habitat for extremely delicate flowers. They also green bushes and weeds, a remedy that the ancients used to heal, season or simply to savor in mate or infusions.

On either side of the trail, from time to time, you will find pirca cabins, the stalls. Some abandoned others inhabited by shepherds who take care of their cattle from "the damage", as they call the puma, rustlers and other evils by these payments. In summer they milk, they make cheeses and quesillos, goat and cow. Authentically handmade cheeses, as in the past, natural.

Freddy, from Palo Blanco, took us for the first time to meet Cacho Reales who has his post in La Junta, where two rivers whose names we still do not know come together and the water that irrigates the vineyards and orchards of Palo comes together. White.

Further up is El Bangel where we were once at a party that we will tell about later. The post is attended by Lucía and Juan de Dios. Few young people are already dedicated to peasant tasks. Seeing these kids gives one hope that the traditional agrarian culture is safe for a while yet. By a trail to the left is La Aguadita, almost reaching the Lampato. When we went there was no one, perhaps they were up on the hill grazing their goats.

And still following in the footsteps of El Bangel, further up, is Las Lechuzas where Sonia makes the cow cheese and Cesar the goat cheese. The land belongs to Doña Elba, from Medanitos, who never stops going upstairs to spend the summer working with her animals, accompanied by friends, among whom we meet a couple who come every summer from Adrogué to lend a hand.

Knowing these people, their tales and stories, "mate" in hand is not a matter of a while. Like friendships, you have to dedicate time, and love. People are friendly and welcome us warmly. Once, Cacho Reales, did not let us go until we finished roasting the goat that he had sent to butcher because we had gone to visit him.

These are the expeditions that we want to offer you. Get to know the landscape yes, and feel the chores of field work, participate in it if you want, share snacks and friendly chat. And feel the adventure of buying the cheeses, because the demand far exceeds the supply.

Work Culture. The Culture of Artisans and Artisans of the Abaucán Territory. Cultural tourism.

THE TOUR:

We start from Fiambalá early in the morning. The itinerary takes us through Saujil and Palo Blanco while dawn paints the Sierra del Oeste and Lampato, our objective, with its light.

From Palo Blanco we take a dirt road and then a trail that brings us closer to the different posts.

We stop at them to greet the stallholders and, if necessary, to give them a hand in the country tasks.

In each of the stalls you can see the possibility of buying cheese and artisan goat or cow cheese.

Lunch can be provided by each one or see the possibility of being prepared at the stall. It depends on the availability of the vendors regarding their daily tasks.

And, of course, we can buy cheese.

The excursion can last all day or half.

There are options for hiking.

It is convenient to do it accompanied by a guide who knows the people of the countryside and the itinerary.

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Walkabout on a September morning

8:44 in the morning Inti, the Sun of the Quechua, appears over the Sierra de Fiambala. The light of dawn has that magical power that makes everything that touches it beautiful.

It is easy for the chañar flower.

Even the red "Fitito", in front of an adobe house, achieves photogenic status.

The sprouting vine is not concerned with its charms. It is there for our own pleasure thinking about when it will happen or perhaps it will come.

Through Diego de Almagro street we arrive at the square. Right in front of where our Brotes del Abaucán cafeteria was, a bust remembers Father Arnaldo Azzarelli, missionary and great benefactor of the poor of the Abaucan valley and hills.

For the other side look Felipe Varela who was known as Don Quixote of the Andes.

Between them, a freshly watered path crosses the square that points directly to the Sable general store.

There are vacant lots in the center of Fiambala that allow you to take shortcuts. In one I found an Aromo in flower, Mimosa, they call it in Spain and Italy, announcing Spring with its fragrance.

Not all vacant lots are empty. Some preserve what was once a productive vineyard. Time passes, what was once business is no longer today.

The bus terminal that previously received travelers became a customs office for goods where viruses are retained with disinfectants in this pandemic times.

At the roundabout at the entrance to Fiambala there are the remains of an abandoned farm. It belonged to someone important, now they are ruins that testify to the ecological character of adobe construction, the earth returns to the earth.

You can see from there the Banco Nación, the only bank in Fiambala and the last one if one follows the route to the North looking to go through the towns of the hills.

The statue of the indigenous woman opens her arms, perhaps to want to fly or to bless those of us who are queuing to attend to us, outside because the prevailing restrictions order it.

Blessed, we continue the walk, heading north along Avenida de los Diaguitas, we go to Martina's house.

At the end of the street, where it intersects with Islas Malvinas there is one of the many chapels built in the city. This one always caught our attention because it reminds us of a Sufi temple, so painted green as it is. However, it is dedicated to Saint Cayetano, patron of bread and work.

Perhaps one of the curiosities of Fiambala are the houses and the vineyards with ditches and siphons that mark the urbanism. The rural and the urban in Communion.

At Martina's, mate, homemade bread and jam and friendly chat while spinning wool. One day, we already meet, we will go to make a photographic note of her skills with the spindle and the loom.

Diego Carrizo de Frites is the main avenue of Fiambalá. Route 34 that leads North, to Medanitos, Palo Blanco, Punta del Agua and the villages of the hills. In its path you can see some relics of other times, a truck hugged by an Algarrobo and a luxurious Desoto from the 50s that lived the splendor of the vineyard era.

And, on arriving home, on the corner with Fray Mamerto Esquiú is the house of Johnny, the carpenter, who works under the shade of a huge carob tree.

At home the vineyard awaits us that he needs us to tie before it sprouts.

It's already noon. Inti squeezes. Better this afternoon.

Cortaderas Inn

An entrance door to the Cordillera de los Andes

Arrived at Fiambalá, following National Route 60, on the way to the San Francisco pass that joins us to Chile, 90 km away. is the place known as Cortaderas. There, next to the lagoon, which in summer is a paradise for bird watching fans, is the Cortaderas inn. At 3,370 meters above sea level. It is a stop and meeting point for many expeditions to the highest volcanoes on the world.

Llegados a Fiambalá, siguiendo por la Ruta Nacional 60, camino al paso de San Francisco que nos une a Chile, a 90 km. se encuentra el paraje conocido como Cortaderas. Ahi, al lado de la laguna que en verano es un paraíso para los aficionados al avistaje de aves, está la hostería Cortaderas. A 3.370 msnm. es parada y punto de encuentro de muchas expediciones a los volcanes más altos del mundo.

The surroundings offer various walks and trekks through volcanic hills that reach almost 5,000 meters above sea level. They allow privileged panoramic views of the second highest area of the planet after Tibet where volcanoes of more than 6,000 meters of altitude point. With the appropriate vehicle and always accompanied by a local guide, from the Cortaderas inn the excursion can be made to the Balcón del Piscis to contemplate one of the most spectacular views of the mountain range. For less adventurous walkers, a few hundred meters away is the lagoon where one can sit and contemplate and listen to the chores of a multitude of birds, a variety of flamingos, sandpipers, ducks, coots ...

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